Angiography and Vascular Stenting: Cost, Procedures

What are Angioplasty and Vascular Stenting?
Heart Angioplasty, with or without vascular stenting, may be a minimally invasive procedure. it’s wont to improve blood flow when a vein or artery is just too narrow or blocked. it’s usually wiped out in an interventional radiology suite instead of the OR.

In angioplasty, x-ray fluoroscopy or other imaging is employed to guide a balloon-tipped catheter (a long, thin plastic tube) into an artery or vein to where it’s narrowed or blocked.

A wire mesh tube called a stent could also be permanently placed within the newly opened vessel to assist keep it open. There are different types of stents, including wire mesh.

How is the procedure performed? A Surgeon is specially trained in performing minimally invasive techniques Angioplasty and stenting. You will be positioned on the procedure table.

You may be connected to monitors that track your pulse, vital signs, oxygen level, and pulse.

A nurse or technologist will insert an intravenous line into a vein in your hand or arm to administer a sedative. This procedure may use moderate sedation. It doesn’t require a breathing tube. However, some patients may require general anesthesia.

The area of your body where the catheter is to be inserted is going to be sterilized and covered with a surgical drape.

The area of your body where the catheter is to be inserted is going to be sterilized and covered with a surgical drape.

A very small skin incision is formed at the location.

A sheath is first inserted into the vessel.

Once the catheter is in situ, the contrast medium is going to be injected into the artery to perform an angiogram. An angiogram is a roentgenogram of the within of the blood vessels. this may help identify where the blockage is.

Using x-ray guidance, the doctor crosses the narrowing or blockage with a guidewire. this enables the balloon-tipped catheter to skip the wire. Once across the blockage, the balloon is going to be inflated for a brief time. Sometimes the balloon must be inflated quite once. Or, other blood vessels got to be treated during an equivalent procedure.

More X-rays are taken to ascertain what proportion of blood flow has improved. The balloon catheter, wire, and sheath are going to be removed.

Many times, stents got to be permanently placed inside the vessel to assist keep it open. Some stents can open on their own. Others need a balloon to open. Balloon stents are typically expanded against the vessel wall. The permanent stent acts as a sort of scaffold for the artery. Drug-coated stents are approved to be used by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The drug is slowly released to assist keep the vessel from narrowing again. this is often a condition called restenosis.

Drug-coated balloons can also be used for patients with PAD or dialysis fistulas. It stays there a few times even after the balloon has been removed.

When the procedure is complete, the catheter is removed and pressure is applied to prevent any bleeding. Sometimes, your doctor may use a closure device to seal the tiny hole within the artery. this may allow you to maneuver around more quickly. No stitches are visible on the skin. the small opening within the skin is roofed with a dressing.

You may get to dwell in bed together with your legs straight for several hours. When an arm or wrist was used for access, you’ll have activity restrictions to follow.

When the procedure is completed, you’ll be transferred to a room or a hospital room.

Your IV line is removed before you head home.

Talk to your doctor about how long the procedure will take. Ask your doctor if you’ll get to be admitted.

What are the advantages vs. risks? Benefits Compared to bypass surgery, balloon angioplasty and stent placement are much less invasive and comparatively low-risk, low-cost procedures. These procedures are performed using local anesthesia. Because general anesthetic isn’t required in most patients, there’s no extended stay within the hospital. No incision is necessary—only a little nick within the skin that doesn’t need stitches. You will be ready to return to your normal activities shortly afterward. Risks Major complications after angioplasty are rare. However, inserting the catheter may injure the artery. there’s also a really small risk of blood clots or tearing the artery. When angioplasty is completed alone, blockages can recur. Most of those arteries are often opened again successfully. this will also occur when a stent is placed within the artery at the time of the angioplasty. Heavy bleeding from the catheter insertion site may require special medication or a transfusion. There is a risk of stroke when angioplasty and/or stenting are performed on the arteria carotis. A rare complication related to angioplasty is abrupt vessel closure. This blockage within the treated area typically occurs within 24 hours of the procedure. If it happens, medication to dissolve clots followed by angioplasty or stenting could also be used. In some cases, emergency bypass surgery could also be needed. Other rare complications include attacks and sudden cardiac death. There is a slight risk of an allergy if a contrast medium is injected. Any procedure that places a catheter inside a vessel carries certain risks. These risks include damage to the vessel, bruising or bleeding at the puncture site and infection. The doctor will take precautions to mitigate these risks. Your doctor will check your kidney function before the procedure to lower this risk. See the Contrast Materials page for more information.

What sorts of Procedures are utilized in Angioplasty? There are several your doctor will choose between. They include

Balloon: A catheter with a little balloon tip is guided to the narrowing in your artery. Once in place, the balloon is inflated to push the plaque and stretch the artery hospitable boosting blood flow to the guts.

What Happens During Angioplasty? First, you’ll have what’s called cardiac catheterization. Medication is going to be given to relax you, then the doctor will numb where the catheter will accompany the anesthesia.

Next, a skinny plastic tube called a sheath is inserted into an artery — sometimes in your groin, sometimes in your arm. A long, narrow, hollow tube called a catheter is skilled in the sheath and guided up a vessel to the arteries surrounding the guts.

A small amount of contrast liquid is put into your vessel through the catheter. It’s photographed with an X-ray because it moves through your heart’s chambers, valves, and major vessels. From those pictures, doctors can tell if your coronary arteries are narrowed and, in some cases, whether the gut valves are working correctly.

If the doctor decides to perform angioplasty, they’re going to move the catheter into the artery that’s blocked. They’ll then do one of the procedures described below.

The whole thing lasts from 1 to three hours, but the preparation and recovery can add length. you’ll stay in the hospital overnight for observation.

What Happens After an Angioplasty? If the catheter was put into the artery at your groin, you’ll need to lie flat (without bending your legs) while the groin sheath is in situ. A sheet could also be placed across your leg with the sheath to remind you to stay straight.

After the sheath is removed, you’ll need to lie flat for about 6 hours to stop bleeding, but your nurse can raise your head about two pillows high after 2 hours. Your nurse will tell you once you can get out of bed. it’s going to be before 6 hours if a collagen “plug” was put into your artery. Your team will allow you to know.

Whenever the groin sheath will not be removed then only you can eat or drink anything except clear liquids. That’s because you’ll get nauseated while it’s on. Once you’ll eat, you’ll be urged to follow a heart-healthy diet.

If your catheter was put into the artery at your wrist or arm, your doctor will put a special bandage on to form sure it heals properly. You’ll wear this for a few hours. The doctor or a nurse will remove it and check to ascertain if your artery has healed enough.

The Best Car Deals – Low Finance Rates Vs Rebates – Which Should You Choose?

How To Get The Best Car Deals:

Quick tips that will help you at the car dealer:

How to understand Rebates and low financing offers:

Vehicle MSRP: Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price – This price is always negotiable – don’t ever agree to pay MSRP

Exception: Some vehicles that might be “hard to find” or “limited in production” might be sold by the dealers at MSRP or, sometimes higher. This is usually called Market Adjustment.

Manufacturers Rebates: This is your money and has nothing to do with discounts given by the dealership. This money is given to you directly from the factory. Never let the rebate be used as a negotiation tool by the dealer. Any discount or negotiation from the dealer should be separate of any rebates offered.

Low finance rates: 0.00% 1.00% 1.9% etc… These are called Sub-vented rates, they too are offered by the factory and not the dealership. Do not allow a “low” finance rate to be used as part of a negotiation by the dealer. These rates are granted over and above any discounts, rebates, etc.

Exceptions: There are several exceptions to Sub-vented finance rates, but here are two that you really should be aware of:

1. Not all people qualify for these rates. So, if you suspect that you might have some issue that will cause you not to qualify, there is nothing wrong with expressing to the dealer that the low finance rate is something you are interested in, and you would like to apply first, before going through the long, timely steps of deal negotiation. Many dealerships will view this as unusual; however, any “good” dealer will be happy to let you submit an application first if you insist. Why is this important? As we always say, knowledge and preparation are the keys to not overpaying at a dealership. What happens if your entire deal is worked, negotiated and finalized with the dealer? Then you head over to the finance office to finalize the finance terms and payments… You expected to pay 0.00% interest, then at the last second you are told: “Sorry” because you don’t qualify… NOT GOOD THE WHOLE DEAL CHANGES.

2. Rebates and “low” finance rates can not always be combined. Some factories allow it some times, however there is no rule; you must do your homework first. For instance, Chrysler offers manufacturers rebates on most their vehicles, plus they offer low finance rates on most vehicles as well. Though, you the customer must decide which offer you want, you can’t have both. Although, sometimes Chrysler will run special offers that allow you to “combine” both the financing and rebate offers at once. But be careful, dealers won’t always tell you that these offers are available, if you are unaware and you agree to pay higher finance rates, you are stuck.

Commonly Asked Question: Which is the right choice, Rebate or Low Financing?

This is an interesting question asked by many customers, the answer is simple yet many people have no idea.

Remember this rule: You should do what’s best for you, do not ever inquire with a person, dealer, or anyone else that has any other motive than what’s best for you.

What that means is this: When you ask a dealership which makes more sense, the dealer will likely tell you: “Take the rebate – not the low interest rate.”

The reasoning behind this answer is, if you take the rebate you are actually paying “less” for the vehicle than if you elected the low interest rate. So, being that the vehicle price is the most important issue, you should always take the rebate. Is this correct or incorrect?

Rule: Don’t be concerned what the dealer is making or losing, it’s not relevant to what’s best for you.

Does the dealership stand to gain more if you chose the rebate vs. the low finance rate? The answer to that question is yes, the dealership does stand to gain more. They receive a little more in “reserve money” from the lender if you chose conventional finance rates. The fact is however; that this point is completely irrelevant. Who cares what the dealership is making? Why is that important anyway? Is there some rule that says a dealership is not entitled to make profit? The only person who is doing something wrong in this scenario is you. You’re asking the wrong party for information. If the complete and honest answer might cause the dealer to make less, chances are more than likely the answers will be carefully weighed to fall on their side.

Remember: Your concern is getting the best deal for you, don’t waist time caring about what the dealership makes. Prepare yourself by considering all the facts. Do not make the common errors of all the people we constantly heart about who over pay all the time.

Fact: People who think that dealerships are losing money on them are usually the ones who pay the most!

Note: Please understand the purpose of this and every other post we write is NOT to condemn dealerships for making profit. Why should a dealer not be entitled to profit? What right do we have to ask them to lose money? Would you ever go to a restaurant and tell them that you insist they sell you dinner and lose money? It’s a stretch, but equally as ridiculous.

The purpose of this post is to assist fair people in getting the best deal for themselves. Protecting people from being “ripped off” by a deceptive dealership is our motivation. We don’t claim that all dealers are unfair or “rip off artists”, in fact we are aware that most dealers are honest and forthcoming. Although, everyone is in business to make a profit and the topics written about within these posts are for the purpose of assisting “fair” consumers achieve “fair” and honest deals. Why do we keep mentioning “fair”. Because equal to us having no concern about a cheating dealership, we also have no concern about the “unfair” consumers who want the good dealers to close down their business and lose money.

“A GOOD DEAL IS WHEN BOTH PARTIES ARE SATISFIED”

As we have mentioned so many times; price is not always the most important issue.

The following is the one and only correct answer to the Rebate vs. low rate debate:

With any issue that causes you to make a decision there are always certain facts in place, those facts make up the “pros and cons”. With any decision we make, we weight the pros and cons and ultimately are lead to a decision. Then of course, we hope that decision was the right one.

Remember this rule: There is always a point where the two lines will cross, that point is where you will find the correct answer.

This means; there are variables that create change in every deal. For example: It may be a better deal for me to take the rebate, while it is a better deal for you to take the low financing rates. Let’s explain:

You might be financing $30,000 and your finance term is 60 months. The Factory is offering a $3000 manufacturers rebate or 0.00% for the 60 month finance term. Which do you choose?

I might be financing $12,000 – The factory is offering a $3000 rebate or 0.00% for the finance term. Which one do I choose?

Obviously the answers vary; your lines of “break even” will obviously cross way sooner than my lines. The reason: different factors in the two deals will yield different answers.

Here’s how you figure out the correct answer based on your factors:

For this example we’ll assume that you are considering a $30,000 car with $3,000 rebate or a 0% interest rate, and for the sake of finding an answer, we’ll assume that you’re putting $3,000 a down payment and you qualify for all offers.

First: Draw a line down the middle of a piece of paper; on one side write Rebate on the other side write 0%

Second: on the 0% side write in the sale price of $30,000 – and on the left side (rebate) write in the sale price of $30,000 as well.

Third: On both sides add in your local tax rate. For instance: if you live in Queens NY add 8.25% as sales tax.

Fourth: on both sides add $300 – this should cover DMV – Inspection and dealer Doc Fees.

Fifth: On both sides – subtract $3,000 for you down payment

Sixth: On the rebate side subtract $3,000 for the rebate

If you did this right, so far you should have the following results:

Both sides: should show Sale Price $30,000 Tax $2,475. DMV $300. Sub Total: $32,775

Rebate Side Should show $6,000.00 Total down payment and an “unpaid balance” of $26,775.00

The 0% side should show $3,000 Total Down Payment and an “unpaid balance of $29,775.00

Assumption: If you chose not to take the 0% – the dealer offered you a 5.5% interest rate.

Compare to see where the lines cross:

Next step – find an auto loan calculator – you can go on any search engine type in “free auto loan calculator”

I am not able to attach a link to this area of the post so I will simply suggest a very user friendly, free calculator (which we have no affiliation) is chase.com just search:

“Free chase auto loan calculator”

Calculate:

REBATE SIDE

$26,775 Amount Financed

5.5% APR

60 Month Term

Answer: Payment $511.43

Total Interest: $3,910.80

Total of Payments $30,685.00

0% SIDE

$29,775.00 Amount Financed

0% APR

Answer: Payment $496.25

Total of Payments $29,775.00

Summery: On your deal, 0% came out to be $910.80 less than the REBATE, so obviously the better deal for you is 0%.

On my worksheet, using the same method, it turned out that the rebate was quite a bit more of savings, (only because I was financing much less) if I chose to finance more money perhaps the lines would cross sooner.

Final notes to remember:

1) If you choose to lower or raise you down payment and lower and raise your amount financed, the out come of “which one” is a better deal will vary. So, keep testing the different scenarios using the method provided above and you will find the best deal for you. Every time!

2) Be careful – No rebate is final, while low financing isn’t: Keep in mind this very important consideration: If you choose low financing over the rebate – essentially you just paid more for the vehicle and you can’t get that money back. However, you chose to do so in return for free financing terms. (Very smart) You did your homework, you made your decision based on solid factors and you made the overall least expensive decision. EXCELLENT WORK! Though, you must remember you made this comparison based on a 5 year repayment term. If you keep the vehicle for 5 years, and pay as expected you win, your calculations were perfect and you achieved the best deal for you. On the other hand, if something changes and for any reason you decide that you are not going to keep this vehicle beyond the second or third year… Then, you just gave back the benefit of the low financing. The variables have changed once again and the better deal swings back to the rebate. So remember, in the privacy non pressured environment of your own home; carefully consider all your options and likelihoods. For instance, if you know you don’t keep a vehicle beyond a couple of years, this must be included as a decision factors.

Long story short: Always compile all the facts first, limit the variables that can change the deal and negotiate with confidence.

The author of this article is an auto industry professional for the past 18 years. Robert has extensive knowledge in automotive finance and specialty automotive finance (bad credit). Having worked as a finance and special finance manger for dealerships in the New York metropolitan area since the early 90′s Robert has assisted thousands of clients in achieving auto mobile loans with “less than perfect” credit.